Chunky Lichen Ribbed Crochet Cowl Free Pattern

Introduction

This Chunky Lichen Ribbed Cowl is the perfect first project for anyone who wants something warm, wearable, and quick to finish. Worked in simple half-double crochet back-loop ribbing, it builds up into bold vertical ridges that look far more complicated than they really are. The wide moss and lichen green color blocks give it a natural, woodland feel that pairs beautifully with a winter coat or a casual sweater. Soft, squishy, and cozy around the neck, it's the kind of accessory you'll reach for all season long.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Bulky (weight 5) wool or wool-blend yarn, approximately 200 yards total: 100 yards moss green (A) and 100 yards lichen green (B)
• Hook: 9 mm (M/13)
• Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors
• Finished size: Approximately 30 inches circumference x 10 inches height

Abbreviations

• ch — chain: make a loop of yarn and pull it through the loop on your hook
• sl st — slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook
• hdc — half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops
• sc — single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• back loop — the loop of the stitch farthest from you when the right side faces you

Gauge

8 hdc x 7 rows = 4 inches in back-loop hdc ribbing. To check, crochet a small swatch in back-loop hdc and measure a 4-inch section; adjust your hook size if needed to match.

Tips Before You Start

• When you join your starting chain into a ring, check carefully that it isn't twisted — a twist here will spiral through the whole cowl.
• Always work into the back loop only for every hdc to keep the ribbing crisp and the ridges vertical.
• The ch 2 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch, so don't work into it when you join.
• Change colors on the final yarn-over of the last stitch of a round for a clean horizontal line.

Step-by-Step Instructions

The cowl is worked in joined rounds. The ch 2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch. All hdc stitches are worked in the back loop only to create the ribbing.

Main Cowl Body

Setup: With A, ch 60, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, hdc in each ch around, join with sl st to first hdc (60 hdc).

Rnds 2-8: Ch 2, hdc in back loop of each st around, join with sl st to first hdc (60 hdc). Change to B.

Rnds 9-16: Ch 2, hdc in back loop of each st around, join with sl st to first hdc (60 hdc). Change to A.

Rnds 17-24: Ch 2, hdc in back loop of each st around, join with sl st to first hdc (60 hdc). Change to B.

Rnds 25-32: Ch 2, hdc in back loop of each st around, join with sl st to first hdc (60 hdc).

Fasten off.

Bottom Edging

Rnd 1: With right side facing, join B with sl st in any st at the bottom edge, ch 1, sc evenly around the bottom edge, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Top Edging

Rnd 1: With right side facing, join B with sl st in any st at the top edge, ch 1, sc evenly around the top edge, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Assembly and Finishing

No seaming is required — the cowl is worked as a seamless tube. Weave in all ends securely on the wrong side, using the color changes to hide the tails. Lightly block the cowl by misting it with water and smoothing it flat into shape, then let it dry completely to even out the ribbing and color blocks.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Make it taller by adding extra 8-round color blocks, or shorter by removing a block — just keep each block the same height.
• Try a tonal palette of three or four greens, or go bold with contrasting jewel tones for a different look.
• Work the edging in the same color as the last block for a more subtle finish, or add a third color for a pop of contrast.